
Oh yeah.don't forget to shake it occasionally to help it dissolve, and before you use it. I have made several of those also, 1/2 pad, 1 pad, and 2 pads stuffed into a 1 quart bottle of vinegar and left to rust away ( usually takes 2 - 4 weeks to dissolve ) Makes a nice brown stain, and great for simulating real rust. And TJ is correct, only use true Ink.Īlso, don't forget the tried and true method of using white vinegar with steel wool stuffed into the bottle. I have used brown, red, black, yellow, and orange. I am going to have to try blue as Rick suggested. Alcohol is relatively cheap, so I just mix it in the bottle itself, using an eye dropper for better control of strength ( with the amount used marked on the side ). Dip the nib into the ink and practice different strokes to become accustomed to the shape of the nib holder. Using this angle as a guide, hold the straight part of the nib holder like a regular pen. When in doubt, start with a lighter mix and you can always kick it up adding a stronger wash. After installing the nib into the oblique pen holder, position the nib at the desired angle on the paper. One is really heavy on the India Ink, and is sometimes way to strong. Details Sold by: Amazon.ca Have one to sell VIDEO Speedball Super Black India Ink, 2-Ounce Brand: Speedball Art Products 4.
#RESTORE OLD SPEEDBALL INDIA INK FREE#
I have my standard black wash in at least 3 different strengths. 1749 Compare Offers on Amazon Add to Cart 18.79 FREE Delivery on your first order. It's a cheap, easy, and highly effective technique so give it a try.Īs Rick and Lance above have pointed out.make up several different mixes. This application and wiping produces a nice effect on it's own. Clearly the coating stayed intact under GAC 100 but readily came off under OPEN Medium and, while slightly less dramatically, also under OPEN Thinner. Just keep straight alcohol and a rag and/or q-tips handy and wipe vertically downward if you got an odd look. After 15 minutes we rubbed an area using a cotton swab to see if the coating would dissolve or loosen, and then repeated the process after 30 minutes. Ink and alcohol runs differently from paint so you do have to babysit it a bit until it dries to make sure you don't get odd pooling or mottling. Alcohol strength doesn't seem to matter so I go with 70%. I use Higgins brand ink that I bought at Michaels. On occasion I may go slightly lighter or darker. As mentioned I have a bottle of 1 tsp/pint of alcohol that I use for lighter surfaces and another bottle of 2 tsp/pint for darker surfaces. It's a good idea to have a few different strengths on hand. Depending on the manufacturer, water-based inks usually cure at 320☏. I originally picked it up from a George Sellios video. Always start with the cure process The main reason behind screen print cracking or fading usually stems from improper curing methods. There is probably no singular technique that contributes more to the realism of roads and structures than the wash so it is certainly worth putting into your weathering arsenal. The finish combines Speedball Black India Ink as a base coat and and Minwax Satin wipe-on Poly as a clearcoat.
